donated by drozdziak , mostly assembled by noisersup, trying to be fixed by gro

How to use….. good question

• Build volume: 350x350x330mm
• Hotend: Revo Six
• Nozzles: E3D 0.4mm, Chinese clone 0.4mm, E3D 0.6mm
• Extruder motor connector: JST 1.25mm - 10 pin (⚠️ To be verified)
• Extruder: Voron Afterburner with frontplate from stealthburner (⚠️ To be verified)

WebUI - not working right now, use at to find IP for wireless connection

To be confirmed what is done, needs to be done from Ellis Print Tunning Guide (Info - 21.06.2024)

Problems with printer that should to be fixed

• Extruder cloged/filament not loading - Fixed 18.10.2024
• One of Z motors is loosing steps (probably back right one) - 18.10.2024 - Probably fixed - 27.11.2024
• Fix hotend cables - 22.10.2024 - Fixed with additional cables
• Better loading/unloading macro (this one is stripping filament) - 18.10.2024
• Connect voron trough ethernet - 18.10.2024
• Fix door - 22.10.2024 something like that might help.
• Fix print quality on ABS - 28.10.2024
• Overextrusion (wrong E-steps) - 27.11.2024
• Some broken parts on gantry - 27.11.2024
• Mix of R1/R2 printed parts - 27.11.2024
• Extruder as mix of afterburner/stealthburner - 27.11.2024

• Add nozzle cleaning brush (there's already one from bambu x1c inside, although if the second one bought recently is better, let's replace it)
• Add nevermore
• Add filament sensor

As mentioned before, the printer still has a lot of issues to fix. Currently it is the Frankenstein (umm actually that's Frankenstein's Monster) mixed of both r1 and r2 revisions. It uses r1 rail on gantry, but stealthburner, from r2 (which sits on the CW1 extruder from r1). Some 3D printed parts may be from different revision, some of them needed to be printed to fit correctly, the bottom panel needed to be cut on laser… Long story short it's a mess which should be addressed by replacing all the parts to the latest revision.

Apart from that a lot of 3d printed parts have a poor quality and some of them even cracked. We're unsure about the belt tension, or if there're any loose screws. We've already had some unexpected fuckups related to Z motor being clogged by some shit. All of such factors can certainly affect the printer workflow, which might explain non-deterministic results after each calibration.

(based on the https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/releases/tag/V2.4r2 and https://vorondesign.com/voron2.4)

We need to source following parts:

• Linear Rail MGN12H 400mm (TODO: verify)</del * <del> TL-Q5MC2-Z Probe
• 5015 Centrefugal Fan
• Some connectors (TODO: ask gro about those)
• New belts, as the old ones are worn (TODO: verify)
• foam tape 1mm and 3mm (alternatively, we can cut some of the HS' foam stock and glue it on where needed)
• 4x rubber feet 38x19mm

After we source all of the items we should replace the parts, print substitute 3d parts if needed, and verify if everything is tight and great. Those articles might help:

• https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_before_we_begin.html
• https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/mechanical/
• https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/mechanical/v2_gantry_squaring.html
• https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/secondary_printer_tuning.html
• https://docs.vorondesign.com/maintenance.html

user: user

password: dupa.8

voron_de_skurwielo.ini

1. Home the printer
2. Go to G1 X175 Y110 Z225. These coordinates leave the 150mm belt sections required for frequency-based tuning on all axes.
3. Tension each belt by strumming its respective 150mm section next to a smartphone running an FFT viewer app:
   1. A/B belts - 110Hz at 150mm
   2. Z belts - 140Hz at 150mm